Day 2: Pushkar
"We found some camels"
Now in Pushkar, we've only been in India for four days and have already lost track of what day it actually is. That could also be something to do with the 5.30am finish that the town had last night as it celebrated the holiest day of their festival. It should be noted we didn’t have a 5.30am finish – we had ear plugs and a lie in until 11. And as such we woke up this morning to the sounds of our first Saturday in India – the same bustle and hubbub as normal in spite of their all-nighter. (Those words really come into their own here – hubbub, throng, tumult – like their meaning only rings true when said about India.)
On the eve of the holy day we began with what is I think the healthiest and thank Krishna – quietest breakfast I have ever had. Off the main drag in Laxmi Market an oasis of ‘wellness’ welcomed us which manifested itself as beansprouts on brown bread for me and a concerned half hour for Jacko when served his lemon soda… with ice (!) (Spoiler alert – he has survived).
We ate rightly
Sated and ready to find us some camels we then spent the day wandering a little further afield (is there a desert equivalent?) to seek out the so far elusive stars of the show… (Imagined conversation upon our return: “so how was the camel festival you were banging on about?” “We didn’t see any camels” “Oh…”
But fear not we found some camels! And they made a real effort for us too – dressed up to the nines in the kind of colourful crochet which would make even Ann Geoghegan (family in joke) double take. (Re: the camels you see in the picture gallery below - the one on the right is a Bikaneri camel - distinguished by its tawny colour; the camel to the left is a Jaisalmeri. The first known for its strength, the second for its speed), You're welcome!
The wander around the festival also continued to highlight some of the cultural differences / nuances, if I’m being kind, I’ve been experiencing to date which is largely linked to everyone assuming Jacko is the boss… and his is the only opinion that counts… “How was your meal sir?” “Can I have your reservation sir?” “Would you like anything else sir?” But maybe it’s less about gender bias and more about Jacko’s more than passing resemblance to Thor. Apparently. According to the seven locals who asked him for selfies. NB. His head will soon be taking part in the upcoming hot air balloon festival ;- )
Sadhus, pilgrims and other holy men descend on Pushkar for the Kartik festival
Post siesta (we had been awake since 5am) we took a walk around Pushkar lake’s many ghats – including where Ghandi’s and Nehru’s ashes are scattered. The story goes that Brahma appeared here, dropped a lotus flower and the lake rose up - which would more than explain why so many thousands are here now, with us. Magical in more ways than one.
The evening seemed an altogether more local affair. And whilst we did briefly venture out to try and get a glimpse of Pushkar’s pilgrims bathing themselves at midnight in the holy waters, something for the first time just didn’t feel right. It felt like we were interlopers; gate-crashers maybe – so we trusted our instincts and headed back to the hotel – only to be greeted by a group of wonderfully dressed young women on the roof opposite our room waving and smiling, readying themselves for the big night. Ten minutes prior, a scene from India’s version of The Lost Boys with screaming motorbikes and ‘enquiring eyes’ (admittedly the first time I’ve felt a bit uncomfortable as a woman) and then this. Never a dull or unsurprising moment.
So to recap:
- I am enjoying being a vegetarian again. (All of Pushkar is vegetarian and dry).
- Horn beeping – (our soundtrack) isn’t an aggressive ‘get out of the way’, it’s a helpful prompt… and Indian drivers prompt every moment of every day.
- I have a near constant inner monologue about whether I’m sufficiently covered up.
- India has thus far been a series of interesting guesses.
- I am to date succeeding in not treating travelling as a new job… Much to Jacko’s relief.
- I bloody love Indian music!
Next up, we’re heading south to Udaipur, which if the guide books are to be believed is one of the most breath-takingly romantic settings in all of Rajasthan. And also one of the settings for Octopussy!
Lake Pichola’s – its centrepiece – name means ‘the backyard’.
Our new backyard. Fingers crossed we get on the train this time ;- ) Too soon, Jacko?